Welcome to Paw Care Tips 🐾

┊ review diff a/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/cat-toys-draft.md → b/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/cat-toys-draft.md @@ -0,0 +1,84 @@ +My sister’s $1,800 linen sofa survived eleven days. Her cat Biscuit picked one corner and worked it over every morning at 5:40, purring the entire time. She tried yelling. She tried citrus spray. Nothing changed until she stopped fighting the behavior and started competing with the couch. + +That’s the part most owners miss. Scratching isn’t a discipline problem. It’s a need. + +The ASPCA says it plainly: cats scratch during play, while stretching, and to mark territory, so the goal isn’t to stop the behavior but to teach your cat where to do it (ASPCA). + +So the toys below aren’t cute extras. They’re the replacement your cat has to prefer over the sofa. + +## Why your cat picked that one couch arm + +Cats scratch to peel the worn outer sheath off their claws, to stretch their backs, and to leave scent from glands in their paw pads. A couch arm is close to ideal: firm, stable, and tall enough for a full rake. + +Biscuit’s corner also sat in the middle of the living room, and that mattered more than the fabric. Cats mark the territory they care about. A scratcher tucked away in the basement reads as nothing at all. + +One number worth knowing: scratching shows up as early as 8 weeks of age. That comes from PetMD, and it explains why a three-year-old cat still shredding isn’t going through a phase. It’s a habit with an unmet need underneath it. + +## Match the toy to your cat’s scratching style + +Most “bad” cat toys fail because they don’t match how the cat scratches. Watch your cat for a week before you buy anything. + +| Where your cat scratches | Style | What to look for | +|—|—|—| +| Couch arms, door frames | Vertical | Sisal or rope post, 30 inches and up | +| Carpet, rugs, floor edges | Horizontal | Corrugated cardboard lounge | +| Chair legs, tight corners | Angled | Tilted or wall-mounted board | +| Right after a nap | Stretch | Small pad beside the bed | + +If your cat scratches high on a door frame, a knee-height pad won’t get used. Height is the detail people get wrong most often. + +## The 7 cat toys that actually worked + +1. SmartCat Pioneer Pet Ultimate Scratching Post (about $69.99). Thirty-two inches of sisal on a base heavy enough that it won’t tip. In my experience, stability beats material every time. A wobbly post gets abandoned within a week, and you’ll blame the cat. + +2. Scratch Lounge Original (about $39.99). Corrugated cardboard, reversible, and it doubles as a bed. My cat used hers as a scratcher for two weeks, then started napping in it. That’s the goal, since her scent builds where she relaxes. + +3. PetFusion Ultimate Cat Scratcher Lounge (about $59.99). A long cardboard curve that works for raking and for a full stretch. Wide enough that a 15 lb cat can flop down on it without sliding off. + +4. A wall-mounted sisal board (about $29.99). This is the one for door-frame scratchers. Mount it at your cat’s full stretch height. Hold a treat above her head, mark where her claws reach, and drill there. + +5. An angled cardboard ramp with a catnip-infused pad (about $22.50). Good middle ground for cats who scratch both up and down. I’ve found angled boards get used more in small apartments, simply because they fit against a wall. + +6. Da Bird wand toy (about $12). Not a scratcher, and still the single item that saved my sister’s sofa. Ten minutes of chase before dinner moved the energy that used to go into the couch arm. The ASPCA suggests running a wand toy over the scratcher during play, which ties the two together in your cat’s head. + +7. A second identical post beside the couch (about $29.99). Sounds redundant. Isn’t. Place it within arm’s reach of the corner your cat already loves, so the good option sits closer than the bad one. + +## Setting up a station your cat will actually choose + +Placement does most of the work here. Put a scratcher in every room where your cat hangs out, and one beside the piece of furniture under attack. + +Don’t hide scratchers in a spare bedroom. Cats scratch to be seen and smelled, so the post belongs in the traffic, near where you sit. + +Reward the choice. Every time your cat uses the post, drop a treat or pick up the wand toy. It takes about three weeks of consistency before most cats switch over on their own. + +Keep nails trimmed every two to three weeks, per the ASPCA. Blunt claws do far less damage while you’re still training, and plastic caps are a decent backup for the couch you can’t afford to lose. They last four to six weeks and buy you time. + +## Mistakes that undo a good scratcher + +Punishment is the big one. Yelling and squirt bottles teach your cat to scratch when you aren’t home, and they add anxiety to a behavior that’s already about stress relief. + +Don’t force your cat’s paws onto a post and drag. The ASPCA warns this makes cats avoid the post entirely. + +Don’t throw out a shredded post. Cats prefer torn, frayed material because they can sink their claws into it. Ugly means well-used. + +And skip declawing. PetMD calls it an extremely painful procedure that removes bone along with the claw, and it doesn’t remove the drive to scratch at all. + +## FAQ + +What if my cat ignores every scratcher I buy? + +Go back to material. Cats generally prefer one surface over the others: sisal rope, cardboard, wood, or carpet. Buy the cheapest version of each in the next month and watch which one gets wrecked first, then upgrade that type. + +How many scratchers does one cat need? + +At least one per room your cat spends time in, plus one next to each piece of furniture she damages. Multi-cat homes need more, since sharing a resource causes tension that shows up as more scratching. + +Does catnip work on cats that don’t react to it? + +Roughly half of cats don’t respond to catnip, and the trait is inherited. Silvervine or a valerian-based spray works on many of those cats. If nothing works, drag a wand toy across the post instead and let play do the selling. … omitted 6 diff line(s) across 1 additional file(s)/section(s) ┊ review diff a//root/.hermes/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/cat-toys-draft.md → b//root/.hermes/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/cat-toys-draft.md @@ -2,7 +2,7 @@ That’s the part most owners miss. Scratching isn’t a discipline problem. It’s a need. -The ASPCA says it plainly: cats scratch during play, while stretching, and to mark territory, so the goal isn’t to stop the behavior but to teach your cat where to do it (ASPCA). +The ASPCA says it plainly: cats scratch while stretching, and they scratch to mark the territory they claim. So the goal isn’t to stop the behavior. It’s to teach your cat where to do it (ASPCA). So the toys below aren’t cute extras. They’re the replacement your cat has to prefer over the sofa. ┊ review diff a//root/.hermes/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/cat-toys-draft.md → b//root/.hermes/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/cat-toys-draft.md @@ -8,7 +8,7 @@ ## Why your cat picked that one couch arm -Cats scratch to peel the worn outer sheath off their claws, to stretch their backs, and to leave scent from glands in their paw pads. A couch arm is close to ideal: firm, stable, and tall enough for a full rake. +Cats scratch to peel the worn outer sheath off their claws and expose the sharp new claw underneath. Your cat also gets a back stretch out of it, and she leaves scent from glands in her paw pads. A couch arm is close to perfect for that job. It’s firm, it’s anchored, and it’s tall enough for a full rake. Biscuit’s corner also sat in the middle of the living room, and that mattered more than the fabric. Cats mark the territory they care about. A scratcher tucked away in the basement reads as nothing at all. ┊ review diff a//root/.hermes/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/cat-toys-draft.md → b//root/.hermes/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/cat-toys-draft.md @@ -47,6 +47,8 @@ Placement does most of the work here. Put a scratcher in every room where your cat hangs out, and one beside the piece of furniture under attack. +Sturdiness is non-negotiable. Push the post with two fingers. If the top moves more than an inch, weight the base or wedge it against a wall. + Don’t hide scratchers in a spare bedroom. Cats scratch to be seen and smelled, so the post belongs in the traffic, near where you sit. Reward the choice. Every time your cat uses the post, drop a treat or pick up the wand toy. It takes about three weeks of consistency before most cats switch over on their own. ┊ review diff a//root/.hermes/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/cat-toys-draft.md → b//root/.hermes/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/cat-toys-draft.md @@ -51,7 +51,11 @@ Don’t hide scratchers in a spare bedroom. Cats scratch to be seen and smelled, so the post belongs in the traffic, near where you sit. -Reward the choice. Every time your cat uses the post, drop a treat or pick up the wand toy. It takes about three weeks of consistency before most cats switch over on their own. +Reward the choice. Every time your cat uses the post, drop a treat or pick up the wand toy. Praise counts too, so use a happy voice while she’s mid-scratch on the good surface. It takes about three weeks of consistency before most cats switch over on their own. + +Angle matters as much as height. A cat that scratches a low, slanted chair leg wants a board she can rake downward, not a vertical post. Try propping a cardboard pad against the wall at 20 degrees and see if she takes to it. + +Catnip helps here. Rub it into the sisal rather than sprinkling it on the carpet, so the scent lives on the surface you want her to use. Refresh it every week for the first month, since the oils fade fast. Keep nails trimmed every two to three weeks, per the ASPCA. Blunt claws do far less damage while you’re still training, and plastic caps are a decent backup for the couch you can’t afford to lose. They last four to six weeks and buy you time. ┊ review diff a//root/.hermes/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/cat-toys-draft.md → b//root/.hermes/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/cat-toys-draft.md @@ -27,7 +27,7 @@ If your cat scratches high on a door frame, a knee-height pad won’t get used. Height is the detail people get wrong most often. -## The 7 cat toys that actually worked +## The 7 best cat toys for stopping destructive scratching 1. SmartCat Pioneer Pet Ultimate Scratching Post (about $69.99). Thirty-two inches of sisal on a base heavy enough that it won’t tip. In my experience, stability beats material every time. A wobbly post gets abandoned within a week, and you’ll blame the cat. ┊ review diff a//root/.hermes/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/cat-toys-draft.md → b//root/.hermes/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/cat-toys-draft.md @@ -85,6 +85,6 @@ Is it too late to retrain a senior cat? -No. My sister’s cat was nine when the couch situation changed. Older cats adapt fine when the new scratcher is stable, tall enough, and placed where she can be seen using it. Expect a few weeks, not a few days. +No. My sister’s cat was nine when the couch situation changed. Older cats adapt fine when the new scratcher is stable and sits where she can be seen using it. Expect a few weeks, not a few days. The couch still looks rough, honestly. But it hasn’t gotten worse since February, and Biscuit now scratches her post at 5:40 instead of the linen. —META— Description: Stop furniture damage with 7 cat toys that redirect scratching. Real product picks, setup tips, and vet-backed cat scratching solutions that work. Tags: cats, cat scratching solutions, best cat toys, furniture scratching prevention —CONTENT— My sister’s $1,800 linen sofa survived eleven days. Her cat Biscuit picked one corner and worked it over every morning at 5:40, purring the entire time. She tried yelling. She tried citrus spray. Nothing changed until she stopped fighting the behavior and started competing with the couch. That’s the part most owners miss. Scratching isn’t a discipline problem. It’s a need. The ASPCA says it plainly: cats scratch while stretching, and they scratch to mark the territory they claim. So the goal isn’t to stop the behavior. It’s to teach your cat where to do it (ASPCA). So the toys below aren’t cute extras. They’re the replacement your cat has to prefer over the sofa. ## Why your cat picked that one couch arm Cats scratch to peel the worn outer sheath off their claws and expose the sharp new claw underneath. Your cat also gets a back stretch out of it, and she leaves scent from glands in her paw pads. A couch arm is close to perfect for that job. It’s firm, it’s anchored, and it’s tall enough for a full rake. ...

┊ review diff a/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/dog-nails.md → b/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/dog-nails.md @@ -0,0 +1,87 @@ +—META— +Description: A nervous first-timer’s guide to dog nail clipping: how to find the quick, which tools work, and what to do if you cut too far. +Tags: dogs, trim dog nails, dog nail clipping, safe dog grooming +—CONTENT— +# How to trim your dog’s nails safely at home + +My sister’s beagle mix weighs 25 lbs and can hear a nail clipper from three rooms away. The first time she tried a trim at home, she took off a little too much, hit the quick, and spent the next 48 hours under the couch giving everyone the cold shoulder. It took six weeks of treats and short sessions to get him back on the towel. + +That story isn’t unusual. Plenty of new dog owners put off nail trims until the click-click-click on the kitchen floor turns into a tap dance. I’ve found that the fear is mostly about one thing: not knowing where the blood supply ends inside the nail. Once you can predict that, the rest is just handling. + +So here’s the version of this guide I wish someone had handed me before that first snip. It’s the practical stuff, including the parts most articles skip. + +## Why long nails are a bigger deal than you think + +A dog’s nail isn’t just a fashion detail. It’s part of how they stand. When nails get long enough to touch the ground before the paw pad does, they push the toe joint backward and up. The paw flattens, the wrist angles change, and the whole leg has to compensate. + +The American Kennel Club puts it plainly: overgrown nails put extra stress on bones and joints and can contribute to splayed feet over time. Their nail care guidance also points out the awkward feedback loop here. The quick, which is the blood and nerve supply inside the nail, grows forward when the nail isn’t trimmed. So the longer you wait, the longer the quick gets, and the harder the next trim becomes. + +That’s the part that surprised me. People assume a nervous dog just needs more time. Sometimes what they need is a nail that’s been kept short all along, so the quick never had a chance to creep out. + +There’s a sound test too. Stand on a hard floor and listen. If you hear clicking with every step, those nails are past due. On carpet you won’t hear anything, which is why so many dogs arrive at the vet with talons. A rough guideline for most adult dogs is every 3 to 4 weeks, and puppies from about 3 months old can start short, gentle introductions to the tool. + +## What you actually need before the first snip + +You don’t need a grooming table. You need four things on a towel, and a dog who isn’t already wound up. + +The clipper choice matters more than people expect. I’ve had good luck with Miller’s Forge scissor-style clippers, which run about $29.99 and stay sharp through a couple of years of monthly trims on a medium dog. The scissor type gives you a clean, visible cut. Guillotine clippers work, but the hole can crush thicker nails instead of slicing them, and crushed nails are more likely to splinter. + +Grinders are the other option, and they’re a solid pick for dogs with dark nails because you take off thin layers and can watch for the chalky white ring that tells you the quick is close. A Dremel 7300-PT is the model most groomers mention, usually under $40. Downsides: the noise bothers some dogs, and you need to keep the head moving so you don’t heat up the nail. + +Beyond the tool, grab styptic powder. It’s a few dollars at any pet store and it stops a nicked quick from bleeding in seconds. Cornstarch works in a pinch. I keep a small jar in the bathroom drawer and another in the car, because the one time you need it, you won’t want to go looking. + +One more thing: treats. Small, smelly, high-value ones. Not the kibble your dog ignores. Think freeze-dried liver or a bit of cheese. You’ll go through more than you think during the first few sessions. + +| Tool | Best for | Watch out for | +|—|—|—| +| Scissor clippers | Thick nails, quick visual check | Dull blades crush instead of cut | +| Guillotine clippers | Thin nails, small dogs | Can splinter brittle nails | +| Grinder | Dark nails, anxious-by-nature handlers | Noise, heat from holding too long | + +## How to trim your dog’s nails without the drama + +Start when your dog is tired. After a walk is ideal, since a 25-minute sniff-fest usually takes the edge off. Skip it right after meals or when someone’s at the door. + +Get your dog on a non-slip surface and sit beside them rather than leaning over. Looming over a dog reads as pressure. I usually sit on the floor with one leg along their side, so they can lean if they want to. + +Now handle a paw without trimming anything. Just hold it, press the pad gently so the nail extends, and feed a treat. Do that for a few days before you ever pick up the clipper. It sounds slow. It saves weeks later. + +When you’re ready, take one nail at a time and cut small. The standard advice is to stay 2 to 3 mm away from the quick, and honestly, on the first pass, take less than you think you should. You can always take another sliver. You can’t put it back. + +On clear nails, look for the pink core running down the center. Cut in front of where the pink stops, where the nail turns white and chalky. On dark nails, look at the cut face itself: a solid gray-black center means keep going slowly, and a small white or pink dot in the middle means stop. + +Do the front paws first, then give a break. Wrap up with the dewclaws, those nails on the inner side of the leg that never touch the ground. They curl if you forget them, and a curled dewclaw can grow into the skin. That’s one of the more common nail problems vets treat, and it’s easy to prevent. + +If your dog pulls away, stop the session. One nail trimmed without stress beats five nails and a dog who now hides when you open a drawer. The AKC’s own guidance makes the same point about keeping sessions short and building from there: https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/health/how-to-trim-dogs-nails-safely/ + +I’ve found that the dogs who fight hardest are usually the ones whose owners push through the resistance once. Patience is genuinely the cheaper option. + +## When it goes wrong (because sometimes it will) + +You will nick a quick at some point. Everyone does, including groomers with 20 years behind the table. + +Press styptic powder onto the nail and hold light pressure for 30 seconds. If you don’t have powder, cornstarch or flour will do. Don’t panic and don’t scold. Your dog is reading your face, and a calm voice does more than an apology. + +Most nicked nails stop bleeding within a few minutes. If it’s still going after 10 minutes of steady pressure, call your vet. Same if the nail looks cracked up into the toe, or if the toe is swollen the next day. + +For a dog who’s genuinely terrified, grinding can be gentler than clipping because there’s no sudden sound. Some owners switch to a scratch board, which is just sandpaper glued to a board that the dog files their own nails on by pawing at treats. It works on front nails only, but it’s a nice backup for dogs who won’t tolerate handling. + +And if your dog has thick, overgrown nails that have started to curl, or you can’t see the quick at all, book one professional trim first. Watching a groomer do it once, on your own dog, teaches you more than any video. Most charge $15 to $25 for a nail trim, and many will walk you through what they’re doing if you ask. + +## FAQ + +### How often should I trim my dog’s nails? + +Every 3 to 4 weeks for most dogs. Dogs who walk daily on concrete or asphalt may stretch to 5 or 6 weeks because the surface wears nails down. Dogs on grass and carpet, or senior dogs who sleep a lot, often need closer to every 3 weeks. Go by the click test rather than the calendar. + +### How do I find the quick on black nails? + … omitted 9 diff line(s) across 1 additional file(s)/section(s) ┊ review diff a//root/.hermes/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/dog-nails.md → b//root/.hermes/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/dog-nails.md @@ -19,6 +19,8 @@ That’s the part that surprised me. People assume a nervous dog just needs more time. Sometimes what they need is a nail that’s been kept short all along, so the quick never had a chance to creep out. There’s a sound test too. Stand on a hard floor and listen. If you hear clicking with every step, those nails are past due. On carpet you won’t hear anything, which is why so many dogs arrive at the vet with talons. A rough guideline for most adult dogs is every 3 to 4 weeks, and puppies from about 3 months old can start short, gentle introductions to the tool. + +The math on skipping it is worse than most people realize. A dog with nails that curl under can end up with a torn nail bed, an infection, or a dewclaw grown into the skin, and treating that means an exam fee plus antibiotics. In my experience, the owners who end up at the vet for nail trouble are almost never the ones who trim a little every month. It’s the ones who waited until it became a two-person job. ## What you actually need before the first snip ┊ review diff a//root/.hermes/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/dog-nails.md → b//root/.hermes/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/dog-nails.md @@ -33,6 +33,8 @@ Beyond the tool, grab styptic powder. It’s a few dollars at any pet store and it stops a nicked quick from bleeding in seconds. Cornstarch works in a pinch. I keep a small jar in the bathroom drawer and another in the car, because the one time you need it, you won’t want to go looking. One more thing: treats. Small, smelly, high-value ones. Not the kibble your dog ignores. Think freeze-dried liver or a bit of cheese. You’ll go through more than you think during the first few sessions. + +The setup also helps with the dread problem. If the clippers live on the counter permanently, they become furniture and the dog stops caring. I leave mine out where my dog can see them for a week before a trim, and I pick them up, put them down, and hand out a treat with no cutting involved. Cheap conditioning. It works better than treats handed out only when the scary thing appears. | Tool | Best for | Watch out for | |—|—|—| ┊ review diff a//root/.hermes/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/dog-nails.md → b//root/.hermes/profiles/coupang/cache/scratch/dog-nails.md @@ -68,7 +68,7 @@ Most nicked nails stop bleeding within a few minutes. If it’s still going after 10 minutes of steady pressure, call your vet. Same if the nail looks cracked up into the toe, or if the toe is swollen the next day. -For a dog who’s genuinely terrified, grinding can be gentler than clipping because there’s no sudden sound. Some owners switch to a scratch board, which is just sandpaper glued to a board that the dog files their own nails on by pawing at treats. It works on front nails only, but it’s a nice backup for dogs who won’t tolerate handling. +For a dog who’s genuinely terrified, grinding can be gentler than clipping because there’s no sudden sound. Some owners switch to a scratch board, which is just sandpaper glued to a board that the dog files their own nails on by pawing at treats. It works on front nails only, but it’s a nice backup for dogs who won’t tolerate handling. And a dog who’s had one bad experience usually calms down faster with three 10-second sessions a week than with one long session on the weekend. And if your dog has thick, overgrown nails that have started to curl, or you can’t see the quick at all, book one professional trim first. Watching a groomer do it once, on your own dog, teaches you more than any video. Most charge $15 to $25 for a nail trim, and many will walk you through what they’re doing if you ask. —META— Description: A nervous first-timer’s guide to dog nail clipping: how to find the quick, which tools work, and what to do if you cut too far. Tags: dogs, trim dog nails, dog nail clipping, safe dog grooming —CONTENT— # How to trim your dog’s nails safely at home My sister’s beagle mix weighs 25 lbs and can hear a nail clipper from three rooms away. ...

A bearded dragon that stops eating is usually not sick. It’s cold. A keeper notices the lizard refusing crickets. It stops basking and it sits in the same corner for a week. Bloodwork comes back clean. Then someone puts a probe on the basking rock and it reads 92°F instead of 105°F. Fix the heat and the appetite comes back in days. ...

Why cats knock things off tables: the real psychology It’s 6:40 a.m. You’re holding coffee, your phone is buzzing, and your cat locks eyes with you, puts one paw on the rim of your mug, and pushes. She doesn’t flinch at the crash. She just watches, ears forward, then moves on to your keys. If that’s your morning, And your cat isn’t being vindictive. Cats lack the theory-of-mind complexity you’d need for calculated revenge. What’s happening is older and far more mechanical than that. ...

Complete guide to hamster care: cage size, wheel, and diet The first hamster I brought home came in a $29.99 starter kit. A six-inch wheel, and shavings I now know were the wrong kind. Everything in that box was a mistake, and I didn’t figure it out until she started chewing the bars at 2 a.m. every night. Here’s the fact that surprised me most. A golden hamster with a running wheel can log close to 9 km in a single night. That’s a small animal built for distance, and most of us hand it a cage the size of a shoebox. ...

Complete bearded dragon care guide: tank, diet, and lighting Here’s the thing nobody mentions at the reptile expo. The lizard is the cheap part. A juvenile bearded dragon runs $59 to $120 depending on the morph. The setup around it can clear $600 before you buy a single cricket. I’ve watched new keepers spend $400 on a starter kit that gets thrown out within a year, and I did the exact same thing with my first beardie back in 2011. ...

How to set up a bird bath that your pet will actually use I once spent $34 on a pretty ceramic bath that my cockatiel Mango treated like furniture. Two months went by, zero splashes. Then a $6 plastic dish bolted to his cage had him soaked in four minutes. Same bird, same week. Here’s the thing nobody tells you: birds don’t refuse baths. They refuse our version of a bath. A wild parrot finds water on its own terms, usually rain dripping off a leaf or a puddle it can hop out of. In a living room, we hand them a bowl at floor level and then wonder why they’d rather chew the cage bar. ...

The first time I noticed something was off with my beagle, Scout, she didn’t cry. She didn’t limp. She just stopped jumping onto the couch, and I chalked it up to her turning eight. Three months later, an X-ray showed arthritis in both hips. That’s how it usually goes. Dogs are built to hide pain. A dog that limps in the wild gets left behind, and that instinct is still running the show in your living room. So the signs are quiet. They look like laziness, or like a dog who is simply getting older. ...

Here’s a number that stopped me cold: roughly 5,000 dogs drown in pools every year. Most of those deaths are preventable. And the hard truth is that dogs don’t instinctively know how to swim — the dog paddle is a thing, but finding the ladder isn’t. So before you crack open the gate this summer, let’s walk through five pool safety tips that have saved my own clients’ dogs more than once. ...

Best Cat Foods for Sensitive Stomachs in 2025 It’s 3 a.m., and you’re awake again because of that sound from the hallway. Your cat vomits, gives you a mildly offended look, and strolls off. You clean it up, get back in bed, and wonder how many more nights like this you can take. I’ve lived that scene more times than I want to count. What I wish someone had told me years ago is simple. A cat who vomits or has loose stools more than once a week isn’t just “sensitive.” Something in the bowl is usually the problem, and most of the time it’s fixable. ...